The Gang - Timmy, Sean, Anthony, Jesse, Soph, Max, Lachie, Adriene, Tyler, LU, Ashley - Pic By Lachie Carracher
Sorry about the wait folks, it’s been a few weeks since I returned to NZ from the Kimberley Expedition in Australia and we’ve been on media standby while we sort out exclusive rights etc… to the thousands of amazing photo’s we took on the trip. This isn’t over yet but I thought I’d fill you all in and post a few D-roll snaps before I head on my next mission.
Local Kids at Barnett Station, keeping our seats warm till we flew in..
It was a long drive from one corner of oz to the other, we ended up driving over 10,000km without air con through the desert so there was a lot of sweating on each other and ice-block stops.
In Fitzroy Crossing the plan of attack was, fly to Barnet Station, start the expedition on Barnet Creek, which after a good days paddle will flow into the Han River and after 3-4 days the Han will flow into the Fitzroy where we were looking for sick waves to surf. It’s the start of February, the wettest month of monsoon season so we are expecting some big storms while we’re in there and the river which is currently lower than we were expecting should rise quite rapidly. This is to be the first peak flow descent of the Fitzroy and the first big wave exploration in Australia.
Campsite#1, Soooo good to finally be at the river.
With the standard last minute dramas, our only key for the van snapping in half and missing our first plane, it was a bit of a rough flight from Fitzroy crossing but we finally landed in Barnett Station. We were picked up by a local, thrown on the back of a Ute and dropped at the river bank….perfect! Finally!!!! We were at the river! Not only that, we were at a primo swimming hole where Jesse caught the first fish of the trip and we could chill for the night before our first side mission the next day.
Day 1, LU - The Gruelling Hike to the waterfall!
Day 1 - As much as we wanted to get going downstream, we had been told of a sweet waterfall further upstream and we couldn’t resist checking it out. Only a few Km’s was the good word so we began the upstream paddle, eddy-hopping between trees, hiking, and dragging boats in the brutal heat and after a gruelling 5hrs! found the waterfall. Pretty cool drop, about 50ft in total, 20ft sloper and 30ft vertical. Although a bit on the low side so the sloper was pretty mank. With all of us completely exhausted from the walk in and beating sun, we pulled the pin and paddled back to camp through a few cool G3-4 rapids, dreaming about how good the dry mouldy wraps and cheese were going to be when we got back. We stopped for just long enough to make our dreams come true before the whole team took downstream a couple of km’s before dark….we were off.
After 5hrs of sweating and walking, we made it to the Waterfall at Mannon Gorg
It didn’t take me long to become the first casualty on our first night on the river. Took a small chunk of my thumb nail off whittling a wooden spoon with a big ass knife, nothing a bit of superglue couldn’t fix but that stuff stings bad…
Thousands of bats...gross! Their poop is really acidic so this also meant we couldn't drink the water when they were around.
Day 2 - A good days paddling brought us to the Han where we spotted our first Goanna and baby Croc at the confluence. The Barnett had been quite full of trees, which is a lot of work guiding the rafts through, whereas the Han opened out a bit and was more of a Canyon. Was nice to hit some rapids nice G2-3 stuff so all manageable in loaded rafts. We found a nice clean 13ft river wide waterfall so decided to set up camp that I called the mansion. It had it all, four different levels of flat rock, a clear creek running through for drinking and a cliff to jump off for a dip, and of course the waterfall. We ran some laps before dinner, unfortunately I hurt myself again, landing hard on my edge and hurt my back, geez what state am I gonna be in after a month?...Had a bit of rain in the night, a third of our shelter turned into a puddle so was a cosy wet sleep.
Spot the shelter...the Mansion campsite, beautiful!
Day 3 - Turns out the Han was full of goods. Solid G4 steep rapids, we were moving pretty slowly as we had to scout and although we ran most of the rapids with the rafts, we had to unload them for a couple of the drops, this soon zaps your energy in the incredible heat which was above 40 degrees C. every day. The highlight of this day (and in hindsight probably the best drop of the whole trip) was a 20ft super clean river-wide waterfall. We did a few laps, before the sketchiest moment of the trip, Lachie tried to throw a freewheel but was too far centre and got trashed real hard, he disappeared for a while before the yard sale of gear slowly appeared, including him. A bit scary but he was fine. I was worried about my back which was pretty sore but didn’t want to miss out on the fun and was all good.
LU, landing off 18ftr
The river soon became braided and full of trees so we had to concentrate on getting the rafts through, with the kayakers leading the way and probing the different channels. We soon got our first decent rain storm, it was pretty amazing making our way through corridors of trees in the downpour with the thunder & lightening. The storm passed over and darkness wasn’t far away, it was tough to spot a campsite in the swampy landscape but we found a flat clay spot to stay, problem was, Tyler had taken a different channel when probing and was no-where to be seen. I took off downstream to find him but after paddling for a while, I hadn’t come to the confluence and couldn’t find him. Since darkness was setting in, I went back for supplies and reinforcements and Sean and I headed off downstream again. With a lot of Marco-polo style yelling, we eventually found Tyler who had decided he was there for the night. We stashed our boats and made it back to camp just in time for dinner, learning a good lesson about staying together, especially in the maze of trees. Huge day and the Strive Lentil Dahl was amazing
Another highlight for me, the aboriginal artwork was pretty spectacular!
Day 5 – A bit further downstream the trees disappeared and the river opened up to a gorge again with plenty of G3-4 rapids. We didn’t have to portage rafts or gear so was a bit more of a cruisier day. I spotted my first big croc, just saw it’s head which was massive before it disappeared. We stopped and hung out at a beautiful waterfall on the side of the river, caught & ate some fish, and enjoyed the fresh drinking water as opposed to the dirty brown river water we usually drank. I hadn’t hurt myself for a couple of days so an ear infection came on, stink. Further downstream we hit trees again and experienced another storm while setting up camp. Seems like evening storms are the norm. We had been hoping for some big full on rapids in Moll Gorge today but looks like the rapids we did today were it L The hardest days are about to begin…1-2 days battle through approx 50km of pandanus and hardwood trees…
Another Catch for Jesse...lunch :)
Day 6 – Well the good news was that there wasn’t too much pandanus, unfortunately there was plenty of hardwood, paperbark and eucalyptus to battle through. Highlight of my day was when Timmy was unsnagging the raft and freaked when he felt something brush past his leg…hmmm. The GPS reported that we made it 25km so hopefully only one more day of trees as everyone is exhausted, although the word is that it could be 2hrs or 2 more days. We set up camp in a clay rain ditch and although there was thunder and lightening all night long, we were lucky it didn’t rain.
5am daily starts, waiting for the coffee to brew.
Day 7 – It was pretty disheartening when we had paddled 4 ½ hrs, stopped for lunch and checked the GPS that said we still had 25km to go…We paddled for 8 ½ hours solid, the landscape started to open up a bit so it was decided that we had about 6km to the confluence of the Fitzroy. This gave us a second wind so we paddled for another hour but had to set up camp again before dark. There are a few ear infections going around and everyone is pretty exhausted and looking forward to staying in one spot for a few days, hopefully with a sweet wave....no rain today..
Where are we? how far to the next gorge? where will the waves be? when will the trees end? an exciting part of new expeditions....maps, love em!
Day 8 – Hooray, the trees are nearly over, I woke up with heaps more energy, I think I’d finally recovered from the hike to the waterfall on the first day and had a good sleep. Spirits were up a bit all round knowing we would get to Sir John Gorge today where we would stay in one spot for a bit with NO TREES! We were looking for a confluence where the little Fitzroy River met the Han and that is where the mighty Fitzroy begins. Adriene & I took off downstream to film/photo the team hitting the confluence but instead came to the first rapid of Sir John Gorge…hmmm, the Little Fitzroy was so “little” that we had missed the confluence. The Fitzroy is looking a bit on the low side so here’s hoping we get some solid rain for the big waves we are looking for.
Confluence? We unexpectantly hit the first rapid of Sir John Gorge which meant we were on the Fitzroy river.
After a couple of rapids we spotted what is known as the ‘Barramundi pole’ this is the point where the barramundi stop coming upstream and a sign that we are definitely in the gorge, should be good fishing from here. We took a break and wandered around the cliffs looking for rock art and doing some fishing, not too successful but may have had something to do with the big croc swimming around in the pool below. We carried on downstream through G2-3 rapids, keeping an eye out for spots where big waves might form when the river goes up. About a km downstream we decided to set up camp where we had a couple of good potential wave spots up and down stream, we wouldn’t stay here long though since it’s too hot baking on the rocks, very little shade. My ear infection and back were feeling better today so my super glued thumb started to hurt, kept me awake some of the night, a bit worried it might be getting infected….and so we wait for the rain…
The Barramundi Pole, confirmation that we were in St John Gorge and that hopefully the Barra will start to bite.
Day 9 – Another Blazing hot day, the river had dropped so a few of us went for a hike upstream back above the barra pole to find some billabongs. It was an exhausting walk in the heat but was nice to escape into the shade and pools. We floated back down the river to camp all huddled in a group for croc protection, although I couldn’t quite bring myself to float down the rapid we saw the croc in the day before. I was awake most of the night, my thumb is swollen and I can’t believe how painful a thumb can be.
Home, about a third of the way down the gorge, we set up camp and waited for the rain to come...and waited...and waited.
Day 10 – After a horrible sleep that even Valium & Voltaren didn’t help, I started taking antibiotics for the infection, which was becoming more swollen and sore as the day wore on. We all packed up camp and headed downstream in search of a shadier camp site. We were about a ¼ of the way down the gorge so didn’t want to go too far in case the good waves formed upstream. Boz and I took off downstream and found a pretty mint flat ledge, nice and high up with a stream nearby, sandy beach and a pet crocodile in the pool below, home for the next week.
Home, about a third of the way down the gorge, we set up camp and waited for the rain to come...and waited...and waited.
Day 11 – A miserable day for me, I was in a lot of pain from the pressure in my thumb, pretty much just hid out in the shade with Adrienne who has a nasty rash. Getting stuck into painkillers…wishing antibiotics would take effect. Some of the guys went wave hunting downstream, found a small wave but not very retentive, the consensus is that we need a lot more water. The good news was that after the river dropping a few feet over the last few days, finally it rained! We were all so stoked running around in it like a pack of crazies, it didn’t last too long but hopefully enough to bring the river up a bit.
Our pet croc...
Day 12 – Another painful night for me, even the Valium wasn’t knocking me out. The river came up a little from the rain but still nowhere near enough. I hid out again in my misery until I absolutely couldn’t take it anymore and Adriene volunteered to poke a hot needle through my nail to relieve the pressure. I squirmed like a baby, but it was instant relief as tonnes of stinky pus and blood rushed out, hurt like crazy as she squeezed out more gunk but afterwards was considerably less painful than before (thanks A), gonna lose the nail for sure.
Our little oasis, thank god!!! I may have died from the heat if it wasn't for this stream!!
Day 13 – It’s pretty spectacular from our ledge at night, every night it looks like rain, we get a wicked thunder and lightening show from some direction, while above are the stars in a clear sky. Even if the rain doesn’t make it to us, we like to think that it’s pouring into the catchment somewhere upstream. This night we got rain though, our shelter even survived the winds. In the morning the river was up just over where it was when we arrived and our little stream nearby had turned into a beautiful swimming hole and waterfall, the perfect daytime refuge. All we need now is maybe another 10 ft…sigh…we’re definitely getting worried about whether we’ll get the water we want before we leave, wet month…yeah right…still time though, we have another 4-5 days waiting in this spot before we have to carry on downstream.
More Aboriginal rock art...looks like a diver or something???
Day 14 – Another typical day at base camp, wake up to flies all over us at sunrise after a night of sweating, then turn into a bag liner mummy till you can’t take the heat any longer. Migrate up to the ledge with thermarest and proceed to lie up there and get destroyed by flies while some are on fire lighting, tea, coffee and breakfast. Drink coffee and wake up, eat oats while complaining and joking about it, laughing at Timmys face while he chokes them down. Sweat some more. Do an activity, play cards, read, check out paintings, fish, make lunch, sweat a lot more. If staying at camp, shade pretty much disappears around 12pm so the avo is usually a trip to the waterfall/swim hole till around 4:45pm when shade comes back. Have dinner while getting dive bombed by beetles, lie on ledge and sweat, go to bed and sweat…dream about it raining.
Missed...but he hasn't given up yet, kaept us entertained for a good 15 mins as he chased it through the water and up the cliff on the other side.
Day 15/16 – Same thing different day…although since my thumb is starting to get better, I’m now getting a rash…awesome!
Typical morning at camp...
Day 17 – I was missing being in my kayak so Tyler & I went exploring downstream, paddled a couple of rapids and met up with Timmy and Jesse for some fishing. Was nice to have a change of scenery, catch Brim, catfish and something else with big eyes, no sign of the elusive Barra though. Jesse and I carried on downstream to check out some paintings and paddle a few more rapids and it rained…yes! Unfortunately, I took a took a tumble carrying my kayak over slippery rocks and twisted my ankle. Meantime Tyler & Timmy walked up a stream and found a beautiful water hole, a little oasis.
Tim, Ty, Jesse & LU fishing trip, we decided that maybe the elusive Barra that we'd heard so much about, didn't actually exist in this river.
We had a group meeting in the evening, Time was running out and we’d had a weather update from Mikhaila via sat phone that told us there wasn’t much chance of rain. It was time to re-evaluate. We had 7 days left and it would take 5-6 days to get to Fitzroy crossing where we would be finishing the trip. Some people really wanted to head off so the decision was made, to some disappointment to pack up and head off the next morning.
Jesse, checking out more rock art.
Day 18 – I feel like I’m gonna miss this place, feels like it’s been home for ages. My rash was quite bad today, even on the palms of my hands and soles of feet, so weird.
After going over the camp with a fine-tooth comb, we were confident we had left no trace and set off from camp. When departing I had a moment of realisation that we weren’t going to get what we set out for, as much as I’d clung to hope, the elusive big-water and big waves we had hoped to surf were not meant to be. At that moment I resolved to take in what I could of my surroundings and enjoy the paddle out, afterall we were in a beautiful place.
The nicest place of all, the pool was so beautiful and clear that it was tough to drag ourselves out.
The rest of the gorge had some fun grade 3-4 rapids, which were probably a lot bigger before the water had dropped. Lachie snapped his paddle just before an undercut so was a little sketchy but he pulled it off. We found a massive cliff jump, Max managed to get about 3 ½ rotations before destroying himself on the landing, he was winded and wasn’t quite the same after that, residing to a raft. We figured that we had a few days to paddle out with a couple more potential gorges, including Diamond gorge and the famous Geike.
We were lucky to just come away from the trip with just a broken paddle, no other major equipment malfunctions.
Day 19-22...Trees, the battle of the trees commenced, with the lower river level, the trees really choked up the river. We often had to get out and drag rafts back upstream, under trees and over shallow spots, I found this especially stink cause I had jumped in the raft because of my busted ankle and this was probably the downer point of the trip for me, feeling a bit useless and uncomfortable, especially gutted that I couldn’t sit in my kayak so it was all raft all the time. Lachie managed to go all crocodile Dundee and catch a goanna, which was actually pretty tasty, tastes like chicken…of course.
Diamond Gorge, beautiful and unfortunately flat :(
We were still clinging to hope that Diamond Gorge would hold some big rapids but although beautiful it was flat as a pancake. It was pretty sad to see where the surveyors had made markings for a potential dam, and the reality of the threat the Kimberley was under set in.
Out come the maps again, only a couple more days to go...
During the paddle out, there were less springs to gather water and the quality of the Fitzroy water was dropping as the amount of cows and bats on the river banks increased. Often thirsty, rationing our water, spirits were plummeting as the river opened up to long flat stretches which were pretty devastating in the heat.
Tyler & Jessa, and the livin is easy...
There was some relief however, when the river changed it’s style and wove through a narrow section with rocky outcrops which formed some fun grade 3-4 rapids. It was a a bit of a slap in the face seeing the high water marks along the shore/walls, at least we can try and imagine how much water tears through the gorges. We managed to get one of the rafts nicely stuck in one rapid which was actually entertaining working ourselves out…..the little things at this point.
People!! It was a sight for sore eyes, we helped this aboriginal family get their truck out. You'll see by the wheel he's trying to dig it out.
More flat water…..
Dinner time - Adriene protecting herself from the dive bombing beetles.
Our final landmark, Geike gorge , completely flat but beautiful, crazy rock and caves, there are commercial boat trips run here from Fitzroy crossing so we knew we were close to the end of our adventures. We also knew the the chance of running into a scary salty croc was now a possibility. It was decided that we would spend the night here and paddle out the next day.
Lachie - Geike Gorge
After over a week with no rain, in one final haha gesture, the skies opened up on us during the night. The wind was insane, sand annihilating us, it’s a miracle we didn’t lose any gear, we had decided to sleep under the stars as we had become accustomed to but dove for cover under the ground tarps and then scrambled to set up shelter. With everything soaked and covered in mud, we sat awake, drinking the rain water, watching the river levels (we were on a flood plane) and appreciating the irony in it all before eventually crashing for our last night in the Kimberley.
Adriene and here friend 'turtle baby'
Day 23 - After scouring the area for wind-swept gear, I finally got to jump back in my kayak for the final leg, a few more small creeks joined the Kimberley and the flat water turned into slow moving water for a swift paddle to the take-out. After a few hours, we had reached our destination although it looked completely different to when we left, the shore was about 50m closer, crazy!!! Wet season….yeah right!
We made it, the river is a lot lower than when we left, time for refreshments!
After picking up cars and packing gear, we were all pretty excited to get to a servo to purchase our hearts desires…mine was liquid, lots of liquid, powerade, chocolate milk, red bull, slushie, I wanted it all.
Next stop Broome, a backpackers with a shower, internet, pool and kitchen, everything we wanted. After a few days of tending to our wounds and adjusting back to civilisation, it was time to see off Soph before carrying on a tour of the west coast on our way back top Melbourne. A few days in perth seeing off Max & Tyler and it was onwards to find some waves…finally!!!
Apparently it’s tough to get access to the beach on the west coast of oz, and you aren’t allowed to sleep at them. How do you know you’re not in NZ anymore?….you got a fine for sleeping in a carpark…..rough!
Eventually we worked our way far enough south and got a couple days of waves in which was sweet before the haul across the south to make it to the airport in time to drop of Adriene and I.
Timmy - The surf tour home along the west coast was a sweet way to break up the drive and get in our boats, we got a few big waves afterall.
It was pretty unreal saying goodbye to these people that you had lived so intimately with for over a month. It was amazing to get to know these people and make some more lifelong friends, the beauty of the whitewater world is that I know I’ll see them all again and it’s a lot easier to say catch ya later than goodbye.
Many people have asked me how the trip was…. It’s difficult to sum up such a long intense journey. All in all, it was disappointing that we didn’t get the water we were expecting and so didn’t find any big waves or get to paddle any other creeks, but we still found some awesome rapids, wildlife, aboriginal history and spent a month in one of the most spectacular places I’ve been with some fantastic people. There were tough times for us all but at the end of the day it was an amazing experience, I believe we were probably the first group to paddle all the rapids, I learnt a lot and hopefully when the rains do come the Kimberley reveals some big waves. Meantime lets hope that the dam proposals for the Fitzroy don’t get the go ahead as it would be a huge shame to lose such an untouched piece of paradise.
Photo's by - Louise Urwin & Tyler Fox
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